REPAIR Reshafting Bore Through Irons

An iron that is designed to have the tip of the shaft extend
all of the way through the sole is referred to as a "thru
bore" design. Callaway manufactures the most common bore
through irons. These designs present a unique set of
challenges when installing a new shaft rather than
removing an old one. A steel shaft is removed by heating
the hosel with a propane torch or heat gun to break the
epoxy bond. With a protecting pair of leather gloves (LGLO)
your hands remove the head by twisting and pulling it from
the shaft. An alternative is to drill out the black plug in
the tip of the shaft. Next insert a "red hot" Heating Rod
into the tip of the shaft so that the epoxy bond is
broken. Then remove the head as previously described. To
remove a graphite shaft, mount the club in the Graphite Shaft
Extractor (GRAX).
Heat the hosel using a propane torch or
heat gun to break the epoxy bond and remove the clubhead
from the shaft. If the graphite shaft is broken or if you
are not interested in saving the old shaft cut the
shaft off at the top of the hosel and drill out the remaining
piece. For Callaway irons, the hosel bore starts out as a
.370" diameter but tapers to a .350" diameter at the bottom
of the bore. It is important to know this when drilling out
a broken shaft. An 11/32" (.343") drill bit will work for
drilling out Callaway graphite shafts.

Once you have removed the old shaft from the Callaway iron
you will notice that they have cut 6 slots length wise in
the shaft. This is true for both steel and graphite shafts.
These slots allow a .370" parallel tip shaft to compress to
the .350" diameter ensuring a tight fit. When reshafting a
Callaway iron you will need to cut these slots into the
new shaft tip. First, do any necessary tip trimming to
achieve the desired shaft flex. Next, use a Dremel Tool
with a thin cutting wheel and cut 4 to 5 slots in the tip
of the shaft no more then 1" length wise up from the tip
end of the shaft. These slots will be wider then the
Callaway slots, which is why only 4 to 5 cuts are necessary.

I have also used an Industrial Shaft Cutting Machine (QSCM)
or bench grinder with a Cut-off Wheel (SDC) mounted for
cutting these slots. Push the tip of the shaft into the
wheel and cut length wise up no more then 1". This will
cut two slots in the tip of the shaft. Rotate the shaft
180 degrees and repeat this procedure. You will have 4
slots in the tip of the shaft. Because the cut-off wheel
is wider, 4 cuts are all that is necessary using this method.

You are now ready to install the shaft. Mix the epoxy and
add Black Paste Dispersion (PDB) so that any space created by
these slots around the tip of the shaft will fill with black
epoxy and blend in with the Bore Through Pin
that is installed in the center of the shaft.
Install the shaft using normal procedures making sure the
tip of the shaft goes all the way through the bottom of the
clubhead. You may have to lightly tap the shaft butt to
force the tip through the sole. Wipe excess epoxy from
around the top of the hosel, the collar, the shaft tip and
sole. Also remove any epoxy from the face or back. Epoxy
a Bore Through Shaft Pin (BTSPS) into the center of the shaft
tip. You will need to tap this pin with a hammer to set it
properly into the tip of the shaft.

After the epoxy has cured, grind the excess shaft tip and
bore through pin using a Belt Sander (IVSC) while grinding
against the metal plate behind the sanding belt. Once most
of the shaft tip is removed, your options are: 1. Remove
the remaining portion with a stitched buffing wheel, using
lead compound to impart a stain finish; or 3M Nylon Wheel
(NYYM), 2. Continue to carefully grind the remaining portion
of the shaft, and then use a Scotchbrite EXL Wheel (EXLM)
to duplicate the satin finish.

You are now ready to cut the club to length and install
the grip.